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c o n te n t s Cover: 'Cocktail Ring', David Goodwin, 18-carat yellow gold, ruby, diamonds, 2004 Photographer: Marc Burden EDITORIAL Telephone: 020 7806 2538 Fax: 020 7837 0858 ISDN: 020 7713 1681 crafts@craftscouncil.org.uk letterspage@craftscouncil.org.uk EDITOR: Geraldine Rudge EDITORIAL ASSISTANT: Emma Mills SUB EDITOR: Mark Sinker NEWS AND SHORTFORM EDITOR: Diana Woolf EDITORIAL BOARD: E dmund de Waal, Lesley Jackson, Rosemary Hill, Alan Powers SPECIAL CORRESPONDENT: Margot Coatts CONTRIBUTING EDITOR (SCOTLAND): Philippa Swann Telephone/fax: 01887 840785 ACTING PUBLISHER 020 7806 2539 Keith Grosvenor k_grosvenor@craftscouncil.org.uk ADVERTISING AND MARKETING SALES AND MARKETING MANAGER: Terry Stokes 020 7806 2541 t_stokes@craftscouncil.org.uk CLASSIFIED AND CRAFTS GUIDE: Kay Hussey 020 8523 4948 k_hussey@craftscouncil.org.uk SUBSCRIPTIONS 020 7806 2542 SUBSCRIPTIONS OFFICER: Nikki Gerrard subscriptions@craftscouncil.org.uk Crafts magazine is published bi-monthly by the Crafts Council, 44a Pentonville Road, London N19BY, UK. Regd Charity No.280956 Telephone: 020 7278 7700 Internet: http://www.craftscouncil.org.uk ISSN No: 0306-61 OX Origination and printing by Dawkins Colour Ltd, London and Friary Press, Dorchester. Distribution by Comag Specialist Division, (01895) 433687. Periodicals Postage paid at Rahway NJ. Postmaster: Send address corrections to Crafts, do Mercury Airfreight, 2323 Randolph Avenue, Avenel, NJ 07001. Crafts does not accept responsibility for unsolicited manuscripts or photographs. TheviewsexpressedinCrafts arenotnecessarily thoseoftheCraftsCouncil.TheCraftsCounciliscommittedtoequalopportunities. 2 8 Goldenopportunity 3 2 Clothof theCaribbean 4 2 l t 's aw rap 15 shortform The news in brief: Gardens of glass: Chihuly at Kew; Beads of glass: H eatherw ick’s new sculpture; Made to last: shoes by Tracey Neuls and Orla K ie ly 22 writers and thinkers Colin Ward examines the ideas and in fluence of Henry David Thoreau commissions New works fo r theW e llsp ring Healthy L iv ing Centre, B ris to l gold finger David Goodwin's complex computer- generated jew e lle ry 5 0 7 A / U C a r i b b e a n b l a z e In te rv iew w ith A lthea McNish's, B r ita in 's f irs t black te x t ile designer 3 8 enigma variations Anders Ruhwald's g round-breaking ceramics 4 2 wrap artist H igh-fashion skirts by A lison W illo ughby 9 3 102 46 Soviet ceramics david leach (1911 -2005) Appreciation by David Whiting what isafrican art? Sokari Douglas Camp on politics and cultural id entity international expression Review of In te rnational A r ts and C rafts exhibitions in Los Angeles and London reviews Exhibitions and books reviewed craftnotes Obituaries o f Hermann J iinger, Helen P incombe, M ichael Murray and Joan C rossley-Holland. Plus the Future Perfect debate, conference reports, gallery news, awards and commissions stockists Outlets fo r work featured in th is issue readers' page Competitions and reader o ffe rs Scottish IArts Council Crafts gratefully acknowledges the financial support of the Scottish Arts Council 4 6 agit-prop porcelain Revolutionary Soviet ceramics 104 as i please Tanya Harrod on the dark side of New Media MAY/JUNE 2005 CRAFTS 1

c o n te n t s

Cover: 'Cocktail Ring', David Goodwin, 18-carat yellow gold, ruby, diamonds, 2004 Photographer: Marc Burden

EDITORIAL Telephone: 020 7806 2538 Fax: 020 7837 0858 ISDN: 020 7713 1681 crafts@craftscouncil.org.uk letterspage@craftscouncil.org.uk EDITOR: Geraldine Rudge EDITORIAL ASSISTANT: Emma Mills SUB EDITOR: Mark Sinker NEWS AND SHORTFORM EDITOR: Diana Woolf EDITORIAL BOARD: E dmund de Waal, Lesley Jackson, Rosemary Hill, Alan Powers SPECIAL CORRESPONDENT: Margot Coatts CONTRIBUTING EDITOR (SCOTLAND): Philippa Swann Telephone/fax: 01887 840785

ACTING PUBLISHER 020 7806 2539 Keith Grosvenor k_grosvenor@craftscouncil.org.uk

ADVERTISING AND MARKETING SALES AND MARKETING MANAGER: Terry Stokes 020 7806 2541 t_stokes@craftscouncil.org.uk CLASSIFIED AND CRAFTS GUIDE: Kay Hussey 020 8523 4948 k_hussey@craftscouncil.org.uk SUBSCRIPTIONS 020 7806 2542 SUBSCRIPTIONS OFFICER: Nikki Gerrard subscriptions@craftscouncil.org.uk Crafts magazine is published bi-monthly by the Crafts Council, 44a Pentonville Road, London N19BY, UK. Regd Charity No.280956 Telephone: 020 7278 7700 Internet: http://www.craftscouncil.org.uk ISSN No: 0306-61 OX Origination and printing by Dawkins Colour Ltd, London and Friary Press, Dorchester. Distribution by Comag Specialist Division, (01895) 433687. Periodicals Postage paid at Rahway NJ. Postmaster: Send address corrections to Crafts, do Mercury Airfreight, 2323 Randolph Avenue, Avenel, NJ 07001. Crafts does not accept responsibility for unsolicited manuscripts or photographs. TheviewsexpressedinCrafts arenotnecessarily thoseoftheCraftsCouncil.TheCraftsCounciliscommittedtoequalopportunities.

2 8 Goldenopportunity 3 2 Clothof theCaribbean 4 2 l t 's aw rap

15 shortform

The news in brief: Gardens of glass: Chihuly at Kew; Beads of glass: H eatherw ick’s new sculpture; Made to last: shoes by Tracey Neuls and Orla K ie ly

22 writers and thinkers

Colin Ward examines the ideas and in fluence of Henry David Thoreau commissions New works fo r theW e llsp ring Healthy L iv ing Centre, B ris to l gold finger

David Goodwin's complex computer-

generated jew e lle ry

5 0

7 A

/ U

C a r i b b e a n b l a z e In te rv iew w ith A lthea McNish's, B r ita in 's f irs t black te x t ile designer

3 8 enigma variations

Anders Ruhwald's g round-breaking ceramics

4 2 wrap artist

H igh-fashion skirts by A lison W illo ughby

9 3

102

46 Soviet ceramics david leach (1911 -2005) Appreciation by David Whiting what isafrican art? Sokari Douglas Camp on politics and cultural id entity international expression Review of In te rnational A r ts and C rafts exhibitions in Los Angeles and London reviews Exhibitions and books reviewed craftnotes Obituaries o f Hermann J iinger, Helen P incombe, M ichael Murray and Joan C rossley-Holland. Plus the Future Perfect debate, conference reports, gallery news, awards and commissions stockists Outlets fo r work featured in th is issue readers' page Competitions and reader o ffe rs

Scottish IArts Council Crafts gratefully acknowledges the financial support of the Scottish Arts Council

4 6 agit-prop porcelain

Revolutionary Soviet ceramics

104

as i please Tanya Harrod on the dark side of New Media

MAY/JUNE 2005

CRAFTS 1

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